Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Thinking is good

So I thought I would just share some random thoughts I have...
The voice in my head now speaks with an English accent...
There are many, many South Asians here in East Africa, and I love Indian food...
I think it would be odd NOT sleep under a bednet...
Laundry gets done little by little every night...by hand...
Late-stage AIDS, tuberculosis, cryptococcal meningitis, Kaposi's sarcoma...
I don't miss driving at all, walking and/or running is so much better for exploring...
Kampala seems like it has way more than 7 hills...
I have so much to learn from the doctors here...
Spanish seems to come to me when I want to say something in Luganda...
What muscles do I need to develop to dance/shake like that?...
The fact that I am rich compared to 95% of Ugandans here makes me uncomfortable...


Ndere Dancers

An amazing mix of traditional music, costumes, dancing, and humor made our visit with the Ndere Dance Troupe in Ntinda a great night. The setting is in an outdoor ampitheatre within a huge expanse of land that belongs to the Ndere Cultural Centre, which is nice to explore before the performance begins. There was a mix of Ugandans bringing children and mzungu guests like us there to enjoy music and dance styles from across Uganda. The charismatic leader of the group, who wore cow-skin hat and shoes, was very dynamic in getting the crowd involved, especially the children, and using his comedic talents to get many laughs out of the locals.  We were seated at tables and had traditional Ugandan buffet, barbecue, and drinks available. There is nothing like a Nile Special and g-nuts to accompany such a display. These women could shake it like I have never seen...through 30 minute routines AND with 7 pots stacked on top of their head. Not to be outdone the men danced and played heavy drums that were perched carefully on their heads. I am told by my Ugandan friends that they perform many of these same traditional dances at weddings, but which  ones depend on which area the family originated. They had a special children's portion where all the children went up and participated and I almost cried thinking how much I miss Jaren and Pyper and how much fun they would have here! 

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Week 1 - Photos of Kampala




Gracious Hosts
Kampala - There is a cohort of monkeys that lives in my compound and greet me as I leave for work everyday.







The Surly Avian
Kampala - Marabou stork that nests in the trees outside Mulago Hospital. They are HUGE, and ill-tempered I have been told. I took this picture from my window at work.







Public Transportation

Kampala - taken on Kampala road.
boda boda: motorcycle taxi
matatu: 14-person white and blue vans








Green Kampala
Kampala - Taken from a dirt path in Mulago, looking over Kira road and the Kololo neighborhood.

First Impression by a Naive Mzungu

Food
Imagine eating sweet, juicy chunks of pineapple on a warm summer day. Remember how good it tastes? The pineapple here is twice that good, every single one of them. In fact, all of the fruit is amazing - bananas, watermelon, mangos, passion fruit...mmm. And no need to go to the grocery store, just find a big shade tree and you will find someone selling it. Fruit is my favorite part of breakfast at the guest house and typical Ugandan food is served at the hospital everyday for lunch. It usually consists of matooke - mashed plantains that are steamed in banana leaves, sweet potatoes, rice and beans or peas, some kind of meat or animal product - Phil prefers the liver and fish head, and some g-nut sauce. Good stuff. Many times I end up eating dinner at one of the many restaurants just a boda boda ride away. Phil, Bethany, and Lance took me out to Pavement Tandoori for Indian my first night here and last night we went to Arirang for Korean - served with a side of drunken karaoke.
Mzungu
For those who know me well, you are probably not surprised I speak of food first. Although it is very important, there is so much more to Kampala! I stay at the hospital guest house, where some Ugandans stay when visiting from other parts of the country, but it is mostly a bunch of mzungus. Mzungu is the word used to describe white people. The first day a young boy waved to me and yelled "bye mzungu." I was touched and thought it was the cutest thing, but my friends here assured me the novelty would soon wear off. I have now been here a week and have heard it dozens of times, some in a positive manner and other times not so much.
Although English is the official language, everyone speaks Luganda. I know common greetings and am learning enough to perform a simple physical exam in the hospital. At times I hear people talking in Luganda about the mzungu and I turn and say "oli otia." They are stunned, but then smile and nod in approval. If I am lucky it ends there, because if they keep going I am clueless, so I smile and nod in embarassment and keep walking.
Friends
There are many amazing people here, both Ugandans and mzungus, and I was fortunate enough to have an immediate cadre of friends thanks to some Minnesotans who came before me. At the hospital, I work with very talented individuals, physicians, nurses and counselors who work very hard to make it go. There are many mzungus at the Mulago National Hospital and the Infectious Disease Institute doing many things - on rotation, doing, research, taking sabattical, teaching, learning, and most of all - experiencing! Experiencing life away from the comforts of home, away from the touch of loved ones. Here we are, taking it all in - in Uganda, "The Pearl of Africa."

Sunday, December 28, 2008

One week to go!

I leave for Uganda on January 3, which means I have just one week of winter left!
Ten weeks in Kampala, where I will be working on a health improvement project with physicians from Mulago National Hospital. It is part of a bigger project by University of Minnesota faculty Dr. David Boulware. I will also be helping out with an ecology project headed by Kirsten Nielsen, a microbiologist at the University of Minnesota, getting soil samples.
After spending the holidays with my family, I am spending the rest of this week packing and making sure I have everything set before I leave. So many people who have been to East Africa are helping get things ready - thanks to Dave, Aysha, Lizz, Kirsten, and Nick!